May 30, 2019

This Chic Hilltop Hotel Is Positano's Best-Kept Secret

One look at the creamy pastel houses and stone passageways clasping the jade-green coastline, and you understand why this once-sleepy fisherman's town is known worldwide as the "jewel of the Amalfi Coast." But being known far and wide as the region's showpiece doesn't come without its drawbacks: The crowds can be overwhelming (and it's about to get even busier now that United Airlines will be flying nonstop from Newark to Naples starting May 22). But this isn't to say that Positano should be skipped; instead, it just means you should choose your lodging wisely. In Positano, you don't need a hotel, you need a retreat.

Literally high above the madness of the pedestrian-clogged streets and over-puffed hotels that have morphed into tourists traps, you'll find an intimate, bijou escape with the most extraordinary views: Hotel Villa Franca. The moment you enter into Hotel Villa Franca's calm, white embrace, a sense of mystical peacefulness floods over you like a cool wave wrapping sunbaked rocks. The tranquil arty vibe of this former private residence comes care of owners and third-generation hoteliers Rosa Taddeo and Massimo Napoli, who are responsible for dressing the family-owned boutique dwelling with international and local modern art pieces. Each of the suites are dedicated to one of their favorite contemporary artists, and everything from the snappy bespoke linens to the fashionable gold cutlery has been hand-selected by the talented duo.

Hotel Villa Franca's ultra-swanky restaurant, Li Galli is quite frankly the very best fine dining experience to be had on the Amalfi Coast at the moment. Hurry and go now before Michelin catches on and reservations become impossible—there are only about 20 covers after all. The size is deliberate: the attention to detail and personalization is staggering at Li Galli and at Hotel Villa Franca as a whole. From the fresh focaccia bread served with a tasting cart of olive oils sourced from all over Italy to the kind of intricate desserts you remember long after they've been devoured, every dish is considered.

Presentation is only second to taste. Executive Chef Savio Perna collaborates with multi-starred chef Nino Di Costanzo, and both are masters of creativity. You may find yourself actually applauding dishes like the chocolate eggplant, a modern twist on a regional classic, and the risotto with lemony langoustines and tarallo breadcrumbs is the kind of dish worth traveling for (seriously). Also, the restaurant's views—over the private Li Galli islands, which resemble a woman laying on her side—are nothing short of memorizing.

But Hotel Villa Franca has these kinds of views in droves. Head up to the sleek rooftop pool deck, and the uninterrupted 360-degree panoramas of Positano make you feel like you're in the clouds. There's also an al fresco rooftop restaurant, Li Galli Grill, for casual bites and a Krug champagne bar. Downstairs, there's a well-stocked wine cellar where you can enjoy hosted wine tastings, and there's the Gallis Bar for signature cocktails.